Our Jamaica
The North West Coast of Jamaica remains unspoilt and Cousin’s Cove is without doubt the most beautiful of all the coastal villages. The majority of travellers who head west arrive at Montego Bay and tend to go straight for the commercial resort of Negril. Negril is certainly worth a visit; it caters for everyone from the poorest backpacker to those who prefer the all-inclusive luxury resorts. However, to see, feel and live the real Jamaica Cousin’s Cove is the perfect location.
Jamaica suffers from a bad reputation and many people may not visit because they are worried about the safety aspect. Cousin’s Cove is in the heart of a very sleepy coastline, there are no tourist traps all, only local bars and shacks run by local people who have lived there all their life. It is safe and friendly, everyone knows everyone else and we have always felt very welcome. If you like to be away from the beaten track then this is where you will get as close to the real Jamaica as you can.
Things to see and do:
Whilst the house and grounds are a wonderful base there are there are a number of things to do and places that we highly recommend you visit while staying at Cliffhouse. Below are some of our favourites.
Scuba diving:
Patrick, our great friend, is a sports instructor at one of the large all-inclusive hotels in Negril. He lives in Cousins Cove and will come to the house with all the scuba diving equipment needed to teach you to scuba dive. It is a 2-day course. The first day is spent learning how to use the equipment in our pool. Once you, and he, are confident of your abilities he will take you out on to the reef on day two. At the end of the sessions you will have to take a short test to make sure you have learnt all the basics. If you pass, he will process your official PADI qualification. This means you can then dive anywhere else in the world. Patrick is a great teacher and very good with children. He is fully qualified to teach.
Snorkeling:
From the clifftop you can go down some steps we have made into the sea. It is all coral reef, so great for exploring. Swim out and the reef suddenly drops down to 30 metres and is bright blue. Lots of fish, sea slugs and sometimes squid. The seas around us are fairly safe but we have seen some jellyfish every now and again, usually after storms, so just be aware of what is around you.
Fishing:
As Cousins Cove is essentially just a little fishing village there are lots of fishermen going in and out of the cove most of the time. Some still use old-fashioned paddleboats cut and fashioned by hand from trees, but others have upgraded to more modern motorised boats. You can often see them at night fishing with flaming torches. If you would like to take a fishing trip, just ask Vessel or O’Neil to organise something for you.
Boat trips up the coast:
The BEST way to go to Negril or any of the other beaches up the coast is by boat. Vessel has an agreement with Byron, the main fisherman in Cove, to use his motorized fishing boat for trips with guests. The trip to Negril is about 45-minutes. There are some stunning views of the coastline and we have even been lucky enough to see dolphins on some days. We do have some lifejackets but check with Vessel for numbers. Please be aware that this is not a licensed tourist boat so you may want to ask him to show you the boat before you decide to go. It is, however, an authentic experience.
Byron’s bar:
Around the cove from Cliffhouse and overlooking the water is Bryon’s bar. He is a very old friend so send our best wishes if you visit. It is a very traditional wooden roadside bar. He will supply crates of beer, lobsters and other fish if you wish. Sunday nights he sometimes has dance parties, worth a trip to see a Jamaican sound system and dominoes being played all night long.
Half moon beach:
This is a small private beach that we sometimes go to. You can go by boat, as above, or car. It is about 20 minutes away from Cliffhouse. It is a very quiet beach with a bar and restaurant but do not expect fast food. Order as soon as you arrive otherwise you could be waiting for ages when you’re hungry. It is perfect for younger kids, as it is very shallow and extremely well sheltered so that there are only very gentle waves.
Rhodes Hall Plantation:
A little further up from Half Moon beach is Rhodes Hall Plantation Resort. Here you will find a small but beautiful beach with bar and restaurant. It also has horse riding facilities for anyone wishing to explore the plantation grounds on horseback.
Negril and its beaches:
Negril is a world famous resort with 7 miles of beautiful beaches. Although, you won’t find it as tranquil as Cousin’s Cove, it is worth a visit as there are lots of things to do. You have a choice of places to go. The main beach is divided up into plots that belong to each of the bars and hotels along the coast. You can go to pretty much any that you like the look of. Some of them will charge an entrance fee, some are free. There are also sections of the beach that are for the public and tend to be used by the locals especially at the weekends. There are so many places, you can try different ones each day, just walk along the seafront and you will get a flavour for each one.
Land crab hunting:
Back to more gentle pastimes around the villa. Crab hunting is a great favourite for the kids. This is usually done by Vessel as the sun goes down and when crabs are in season (ask him when that is). Grab all the torches you can find and, like the pied piper, all the kids follow him as he goes around hunting the crabs in their hiding places under the rocks in the crevices around the grounds. If you catch enough you can ask Yogi to turn them into a crab curry afterwards, very delicious.
The bat cave:
Across the main road and up the lane opposite Cliffhouse are Ron’s Arawak Caves. He is sometimes there to take you on a tour of the caves and sometimes not. You may need to go a few times to catch him or let O’Neill know and he can contact him for you. You go with flaming torches down into the depth of the caves to see all sorts of strange animals, cave markings and geological structures. Alternatively, go just as the sun sets at dusk and watch the bats all fly out from deep within the caves.
A day trip to Mayfield Waterfalls:
You MUST do this. It is a full day trip; you will have an hour and 20 minute drive (with O’Neil driving) up the mountains behind the villa to get there. It is a fascinating journey, through all the old cane plantations and mining towns. It really gives you a glimpse into the real world of Jamaica. Mayfield falls is a gem of a place. Beautifully tended gardens surround the waterfalls. Start at the bottom of the falls and walk up slowly through the water stopping at various points for diving pools. Have a natural water massage or dive through underground water holes. It can take about an hour and half or less if you get tired and at the end you will find a lovely plate of chicken and rice waiting for you.
Golf courses:
There are two golf courses that you can play. One is in Negril, just outside the town centre. This is ok but nothing to get excited about if you are a serious player. However, you can just turn up and get a game with no real need to book and you can wear pretty much anything. If you are a serious player then you need to head for Tryall Golf Course. It is a world famous course sited either side of the road back towards Montego Bay. You pass it on the way from the airport. It is pricey and you will need to book and wear appropriate clothes but it is highly recommend by those who know. Call Tyrall for reservations (876) 956 5660
Sir Alexander Bustamante’s house
The house is a 20 minutes drive, high into the hills above Cousins Cove. It is the birthplace of the first Prime Minister of Jamaica. It is a wonderful drive through a luscious green landscape and makes a wonderful afternoon trip.
Horse-riding, tube rafting and other outdoor activities:
A great place to go for a range of outdoor activities is Chukka Blue. It is located on the road to Montego Bay and you will have passed it on the way from the airport. It has grown over the past 5 years to become the biggest outdoor activity organisation on this side of the island, so has a good reputation. You can go horse-riding along the beach and in the sea! or in the mountains. Take a 4x4 safari. Go tube rafting on the river or kayak.
You can find out more from www.chukkacaribbean.com or call (876) 953-5619.
Football
On most evenings, from about five o’clock until the sun sets, the footballers of the cove gather for a game on the local ball ground. If you want to join in just ask, the ground is rather bumpy and the pace furious but it’s a great way to work up a sweat.